Drumlamph Wood

A single brown tourist sign is the only indication along the A29 between Maghera and Swatragh that a mile or so to the west lies the remote, but delightful Drumlamph Wood Local Nature Reserve. The reward for following this sign is the discovery of a seventeen hectare gem - a patchwork of newly planted and ancient woodland, meadows and marshland, all of which supports a wealth of biodiversity. The name is pronounced ‘Drumnaph’ locally, and is derived from the Irish ‘Droim n Damh’ meaning ox ridge, or ridge of the elm, or garlic. I find no oxen, elm trees or wild garlic, but I do find much to interest me.

White butterflies are dancing around the car park and throughout the fields and marshes: I eventually lose count of them. Most are orange tips: the males are white with orange tips on their forewings, making them easily identifiable, but the females lack this colouring and are distinguished from the small whites and green veined whites also flying today by the mottled green markings on the underside of their hind wings. The orange tips are well catered for - there is an abundance of their main food plant, namely the cuckoo flower, or lady’s smock, on which the females lay their eggs.

A short distance into the site I come across a standing dead tree with native animals carved into its trunk and branches. I can distinguish a heron, an otter and a fox, all species found on the reserve. This piece of artwork is called ‘Dulra’, which is Irish for nature. Beside it runs the little River Grillagh: sadly this is the only time I see it during my visit. I follow the path through fields that have been planted by the Woodland Trust with 30,000 local provenance trees. Willow warblers are singing among the young ash, rowan and birch in competition with a nearby wren. I pick out a song emanating from a concealed perch that sounds like a cross between the two, but shorter. After some patient investigation I discover that the mystery songster is a reed bunting.

Situated on a rise in the centre of the fields are the remains of an ancient rath. This dates from the early Christian period (500-1000AD), and would have been a dwelling place for a farming family, with huts for livestock as well as people. Today it is marked by a ring of mature trees and swathes of greater stitchwort among the grass. I then venture into the nearby ancient woodland. Evidence from local maps and records, features such as the lack of boulder clearance, and the range of plants all help to build an historical picture of the woodland, parts of which are thought to date from the late sixteenth century.

The dominant tree species of the wood is hazel, with a few mature oaks throughout the northern end. I pass numerous boulders and fallen trunks that are coated green with mosses and ferns and for the most part the ground is covered with a wildflower carpet. Woven into its pattern are wood anemone, wood sorrel, lesser celandine, opposite leaved golden saxifrage, primrose and bluebell, with the leaves of herb Robert and pignut promising additional flowers in a week or two. Here and there are patches of dense undergrowth, mainly holly and blackthorn, while above me I can hear the songs of chaffinches, willow warblers and a single chiff-chaff.

Just as I emerge from the woodland I meet a couple taking a break on a wooden seat. We chat for a while, sharing our enthusiasm about the reserve and enjoying the views of the fens around us. The most striking features of this landscape are the golden brown thickets of bog myrtle rising from the sphagnum mosses. Their colour comes from the catkins that precede the leaves. The foliage of bog myrtle is fragrant, and is claimed to be an effective midge deterrent. Numerous drainage channels run through these fens: a closer inspection reveals various pondweeds, along with tadpoles and a single young frog, still with its tail. I imagine on a warm summer’s day there would be countless damselflies and dragonflies about here - it is ideal territory for them.

My route leads me by a pond that has been created in the lee of an old hawthorn hedge, back past the rath and on towards what is marked on my map as ‘mires’. This, for me, is by far the best part of the reserve. Damp, waterlogged marshland extends out before me, with proud stands of reedmace, clumps of yellow marsh marigold, and spikes of pale pinkish flower heads of bog bean emerging from the surface. A heron lazily flies by and I am once again encircled by orange tip butterflies. Rather unexpectedly two ravens fly overhead, croaking loudly with those gruff throaty calls of theirs. I suddenly realise I am being watched from the adjoining field by a large hare. As soon as I lift my binoculars, it bounces away into the undergrowth. I wait, scanning the fields for another glimpse but to no avail. Irish hares, once common throughout Northern Ireland, have declined over the last two decades – which means that seeing one is a rather special moment.

Reluctantly I leave Drumlamph, quietly reflecting on what I have seen. The site is well deserving of its Local Nature Reserve status – for starters, there is certainly a local interest. The nearby Carntogher community group originally brought the site to the attention of the Woodland Trust and were the driving force behind its acquisition with funds from various sources. Thanks to their efforts visitors can experience the place’s solitude, beauty and wealth of wildlife, as I have done today.

So if you are driving along the A29 between Maghera and Swatragh follow the brown tourist sign that indicates Drumlamph Wood – you will not be disappointed.